After a stopover in Vienna, we arrive in Prague at lunchtime, and we're driven to our accommodation in Vysehrad just a little south of the old town. We're staying at Arcadia Residence, a pension run by an Italian guy and his mother, where we have a beautiful apartment with a view out over the city, including Pražský hrad (Prague castle).
In the afternoon we take the tram into the city to be amazed at the busy Old Town Square with its gothic Tyn Cathedral, baroque St Nicholas' Church, Astronomical Clock, and statue of church reformer Jan Hus. The evening is spent walking the maze of Prague's narrow lanes, enjoying a Czech meal in an underground restaurant, and taking in the incredibly old and beautiful Charles Bridge after dark.
On Sunday we go on two free walking tours (the student guides get paid in tips at the end), covering plenty of kilometres in the old and new towns, and the left bank of the river which includes the castle. The tours take in Wenceslas Square, the Powder Tower, the Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge and the castle among many other sights, and we learn a lot about the history of this city and its changing connections in Europe's empires.
We explore the city more over Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday (17-19/11): the fortress at Vysehrad (including the remains of the fortress dating to the 11th century), more of the Old Town including a stunning view from the Old Town Hall tower, a trip up the Petrin Tower for a view of the city, Prague Castle including St Vitus Cathedral and the tiny houses of Golden Lane, and the Museum of Communism where we learn a lot about the more recent history of the Czech Republic.
Old Town Square and the Tyn Cathedral; Charles Bridge and Pražský hrad
Charles Bridge and the Vlatva River
Other highlights include Czech cuisine such as beef goulash and bread dumplings, buying a beautiful vintage necklace and a harmonica from a cluttered antique store, and watching fireworks from Charles Bridge on our last night whilst enjoying Belgian chocolates.
Our accommodation in Prague came highly recommended, and it lives up to its reputation. It's a bit like staying with family who know just how much to help you out. The breakfast covers us for lunch as well, and the owner Pasquale walks us to the tram stop and is exceptionally helpful.
Prague is certainly a popular tourist destination now, and the locals seem to be slowly warming up to the idea. Under the cold surface the Czechs have a great sense of humour and are just a little quirky - they get along well with Aussies! We also noticed that no one crosses the road unless the signal is green - maybe a legacy of communist rule, together with the extensive and efficient tram system.
On Thursday 20 November we catch a tram to the bus station at 6:15am, and then take the early bus to Cesky Krumlov, a little town in the Czech Republic near the border with Austria. The town dates back to the 13th century and many of the original buildings are still standing - the entire old town centre is UNESCO World Heritage listed, and it's a beautiful town to explore. As it's low season our walking tour ends up being just us two with the guide, who explains the history of the buildings and the town. We then have time to explore the outside of the Cesky Krumlov castle, a huge fortress built over the centuries.
After dinner we wander the deserted streets, drink mulled wine, and are treated to another random fireworks display as we stand on the bridge beneath the castle. Beautiful!
Cesky Krumlov town centre; Cesky Krumlov Castle at night
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