On Sunday 28th September we hit the road at about 7:30am in our big white Intrepid truck, heading for Lusaka, Zambia's capital. We drive for the whole day through Zambian country, villages and towns. For many people traditional semi-subsistence life continues here, and mud-brick thatched-roof huts are accompanied by animal pens, stands of banana trees and small maize crops. The truck stops to buy charcoal from a stall on the side of the road, where women with babies on their back gather around the bags of charcoal, eking out a living.
All along and on the road, a main highway, people walk and ride bikes, and our driver is constantly honking the horn to alert them. Children run out to the road and wave, and people stare as we pass. They know the overland trucks hold the few tourists that venture out here.
We camp for the night just outside Lusaka, a large city which seems to have had money poured into it in the 70s and 80s (judging by the concrete skyscrapers), but hasn't seen much investment since.
On Monday we hit the road again for another long driving day, and camp under the trees at Mama Rula's Camp at Chipata in Zambia, near the Malawi border.
Tuesday morning (30/9) we arrive at the Zambia/Malawi border early in the morning, and a crowd of boys and young men rush over to us carrying eskys full of cold drinks and trays of eggs, hoping for a sale. We get our exit stamp from Zambia, from an immigration official behind a makeshift sign reading "This is a Corruption-Free Zone". The power goes out but no-one bats an eyelid - this is also a computer-free zone. We then pass into Malawi without incident, and it's nice not to have to pay for an entry visa!
Driving on there are instant changes from Zambia. Most of the houses are made of brick, and in front of many homes are brick kilns. The towns and villages we pass are busy and vibrant, and the lanscape is green. We spend a little time in the capital Lilongwe, which is a bustling, quite modern city. Our time is spend visiting the Likuni Mission Hospital just outside town (see Livingstone entry), and it's encouraging to know that our consultation fee for the volunteer Dutch doctor at the private clinic will help provide treatment for those who cannot pay.
In the afternoon we drive to our camp at Senga Bay on Lake Malawi, which is a huge body of water, 500km long; the pride and lifeblood of Malawi. It is a beautiful place where the water stretches out to the horizon, and one can just make out the hills of Mozambique on the other side. Every so often a lone wooden canoe eases past, highlighted against the glimmering water by the fading afternoon sun. The group enjoys relaxing on the beach as the sun sets, with cold drinks including the local Kuche Kuche beer.
On Wednesday we pack up and head to the local craft markets, before heading up the west coast of Lake Malawi. Villages drift pass, as do the faces of hundreds of smiling and shouting children. In the afternoon the truck reaches our destination of Kande Beach, where we decide to upgrade to a beach chalet for the princely sum of US$13 a night!
Kande Beach is a great spot with a sensational long sandy beach. We'll spend two nights here, relaxing and taking in some of the local sights. The village of Kande Beach is right next to our accommodation, which is happily rustic and chilled. Locals play, fish, wash and swim in the Lake, where the water is clear and great for swimming (but not drinking!). This morning we went for a walk through the local village, school and hospital. We met some beautiful children at the school, though it's evident that they are used to tourists and soon ask for money and lollies.
We're just about to head off for a traditional dinner in the local village, though some in the group are concerned about whether their stomach can handle it!
So that brings us up to date. We're half way through this 4 week tour, and are enjoying every second of it. We feel so removed from Australia it's hard to believe we've only been in Africa two weeks.
It's been awesome seeing such diverse sights, and getting to know the others on the tour (a great bunch from Australia, Denmark, UK, Italy, Canada and USA). We're glad though that we have the couple weeks after the tour when we'll get to spend more time with the locals in Kenya, Tanzania and Rwanda.
Some images below: Dinner in Livingstone with Maria & Trine from Denmark; Breakfast at Senga Bay; Kande Beach; Grade 1 at Kande Beach School.
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